I'm opening a new store.
- What's it gonna be?
- It's gonna be called Carla's Guanciale Water and More.
- Pasta carbonara is a traditional Italian dish
from the Lazio region.
- All about the union of-
- [Carla] Pasta.
- [Sohla] Guanciale.
- [Chris] Egg.
- [Sohla] Cheese. - [Chris] Black pepper.
- And that's really it.
- 'Cause it's like one of those
classic Italian ingenuity situation, you know?
Take a little bit, make it a lot.
- [Chris] Each one of us
is gonna make a version of carbonara,
but whatever form the dish has taken,
there needs to be something about it that is--
- [Carla] Porky, spicy.
- [Sohla] Starchy.
- [Chris] Chewy, rich.
- [Carla] Salty, cheesy.
- [Sohla] Yolky, creamy,
I think that's the key to carbonara.
- It's so elemental and I just want to get that forkful
that has a lot of eggy sauce, a nubbin of guanciale,
an al dente noodle all in one bite.
Working on traditional carbonara,
I'm gonna use the methods that any Italian cook would use
and this dish really, honestly,
you could make it over a campfire.
I'm not getting out a blender and I'm not gonna do any
fancy other tricks with this, I think,
if you just do it right,
the way you emulsify sauce in the pan,
you're gonna be great.
- [Chris] I think modern carbonara
sounds like it's gonna suck
because it just sounds like somebody has taken something
that was good and pure and they [beep] with it.
I felt really clear with my direction
that I wanted to break some rules but not all the rules.
I wanted somebody to come along
and be able to say, "that's carbonara."
- Well, I like the idea of tackling experimental
because I feel like it kind of means
whatever you want it to mean.
It can be nonsense, it's an experiment,
it doesn't even have to be good.
Does that work?
I don't know.
There's no sweetness, so that's gonna be my twist.
I'm going for carbonara dessert, we'll see what happens
when you throw sweetness in there.
- I've got some dry pasta here,
you should definitely make carbonara with dried pasta.
The advantage of using dried pasta
and I think why this dish would have originated this way
is because, where a lot of fresh pastas are revered
because they're so delicate and ethereal,
a dry pasta has that really nice al dente chew.
- It felt really incumbent on Carla to use dry pasta.
That feels 100% traditional.
I think modern carbonara opened up the window
for us to be able to use a fresh pasta
and that means trying a couple different methods.
So I've got one dough that's a combination
of semolina flour, which is kind of like
a coarser grind from a very hard wheat.
This dough is all AP flour.
It's much softer, see how easy it is to dent
as opposed to this one?
So I have a feeling this is gonna be
the toothsomeness that we want here.
In order to be considered carbonara
you need to have a chewy texture in there.
The word al dente really leaps to mind
because all of those flavors that I mentioned,
richness, cheesiness, if that is just presented
devoid of texture, all you're gonna have
is like a big bowl of mush.
I think we're just gonna cook off like a little piece,
just a little kind of taster and just see what happens.
- [Woman] It's hot.
- The all purpose flour is just so flavorless and bland
whereas the semolina has that nutty character to it.
Carla, taste this.
- Is it a noodle?
- It was only in there for a minute.
- So dente.
- So al dente.
- It's good. - It's good right?
- Which is rare for fresh pasta.
I love making carbonara with spaghetti.
I also love making carbonara with a fat tube like rigatoni.
These are rigate, which means they have ridges in them
so the sauce will cling on the outside
but then you've got the tubes
for the little pieces of guanciale to get inside
which I also love.
Traditionally, the pasta should be cooked
in salted, boiling water.
Hey Siri, set timer for seven minutes.
- So, traditional carbonara, there's pasta and you cook it
and you eat it like pasta.
I want my pasta to do something else in this dish.
I'm gonna use spaghetti, I'm gonna boil the pasta to death
so it's gonna expand all the cell walls.
Little salt, I don't want to go crazy,
like if I was making pasta,
because this is going to be a dessert.
No matter what anyone says to me.
- And then I'm gonna dehydrate that.
I'm gonna dehydrate pasta right now,
will you help me?
- I want them to be,
no, do your rack.
This is my rack. - Oh, okay.
I thought we were in it.
Now I got my own team?
- You got your own rack,
come over here.
I'm hoping to get like funnel cake.
- [Matt] Okay!
- You know, express yourself.
I feel like yours has more chaos going on,
and more rage, like,
"Oh, I'm going straight, no curves here,
"no soft edges, literally sharp edges."
You wanna head over to the dehy?
- Let's go.
Is that it?
- I mean, we could hit this
and it would go on or off. - Is the fan on?
The fan's not running, though.
- That's fully off. - That was not the...
Oh, it's on.
Yeah. - We got it.
Easy. - All right.
- I think some of the best dishes we do at Bon Appétit
are the ones where we kind of take an idea that we've seen
out in the world and we kind of repurpose it
and make it fit within our world here.
So, like, an egg yolk raviolo
is something that has been
out in the world for quite some time
but to take that idea of an egg-yolk filled pasta
and carbonara it, if you will,
and bring in all those other flavors
that we kind of talked about
felt like a little bit of a no-brainer to me.
- Okay, so this is the pasta that we cooked to death
and now we've dehydrated.
If you remember, when it went in
it was really thick and fat and it's shriveled up a bit.
I want to deep fry it, and then what happens is,
because you've already loosened up those starch cell walls,
when you fry it, it'll puff.
You know how popcorn has a little bit of moisture in it
and when you heat it up, that moisture turns to steam
and turns it inside out?
So basically, that's the same thing we want to happen here.
We want this to be 90% dry
and then that little bit of moisture in there,
when it hits the oil, it's gonna steam
and the whole thing's gonna puff.
That's so cool.
- [Man] Wow, that's like magic.
- There we go.
So I want it to be really crunchy and really light,
like a pasta chicharrón,
the opposite of what the pasta would be like
in a traditional carbonara.
- Oh my God, look at them!
Why are they so puffy like that?
- So I think that it's, maybe the starch
going into retrogradation.
- You know, like, when you hydrate a starch
and then you cool it.
- Nope. - It kind of
stiffens up even further?
I believe you.
- I think that's what's going on.
- It's very pleasing.
- This is guanciale, it's cured pork jowl.
- As I demonstrate on my own jowl.
It's a really fatty, very delicious,
very tender part of the animal.
- Similar to bacon, but this isn't smoked
so you don't get that smokiness from bacon.
Instead, you get a funkiness from that age.
- When I'm thinking about the guanciale,
I have to also think about pancetta
which is a little bit easier to get,
has a similar sort of meaty, fatty component.
It doesn't have the spices that are put onto guanciale.
It is also a little less funky, so I do want to kind of
see those side by side and make a decision about
whether I'm a pancetta person or a guanciale girl.
They're a little bit meatier than the pancetta.
They're coming up more like little nuggets.
These are so different in texture.
This is guanciale.
It's super nuggety and crunchy and bubbly
and has a lot of surface texture
and the pancetta is just more smooth.
I just like everything about the guanciale better.
They just feel more hunky and satisfying.
- With regard to the pork, the game plan
is kind of gonna be that I'm gonna make
this really concentrated broth with pork hock.
I'm then gonna pick the meat from the pork hock,
put it back into the liquid,
and then solidify it in a very even layer.
All right, I already [beep] up.
I thought I was being clever with the parchment,
but instead, I have some of my liquid
running under the parchment.
Can you see the offending corner there?
So this is gonna set so firmly and I'm not gonna be able to
redistribute any of this, so I just want to make sure
there's a good bit of...
We're good, we're not gonna mess with it anymore.
You know, the smoked pork hock, it's not that dissimilar
from a cured pork product because
it has been kind of salted and smoked.
Everything's just kind of
tweaked and played with a little bit.
- So typically, the guanciale
is used more as a flavor component
than a protein in the dish,
so you use this relatively small amount,
usually cut up into small pieces,
and then you cook that in your skillet
and that kind of is your base.
The fat's gonna render out of it
and you're gonna use that to cook everything else in.
- It's really important to try to buy it in one piece
so that you can cut to the nice fat lardon
that I would want it to be in
and really to resist the urge to cook it
all the way to crunchy or crispy.
What I'm going for in the end is still a pretty chewy,
a little bit juicy with fat, and springy
as opposed to having, like, hard Bac-O bits
in the bottom of the pasta bowl.
I definitely have the simplest thing going on here
and I'm stressed about time, so.
I don't know what's happening to Sohla.
It's not a competition.
- Are you guys making fun of me?
- No, I'm just more making fun of myself.
I can't even do one thing and you're doing seven.
- None of it's gonna be good, Carla.
I am gonna still cut my guanciale up into little pieces
and render it out, but I'm gonna take it all the way
and get it super crispy.
I'm basically making guanciale bacon bits
and then I want to dip my little crispy spaghetti
funnel cake thing in some caramel,
dip it in the crispy guanciale bits,
and hopefully it'll all stick
and add a little salty, funky bite to everything.
- Don't you want the guanciale to be even finer
so you get more even dispersal and better cling?
- That's probably a good idea,
but at this point, can you do it?
Because I have to man the caramel?
- Like, real quick?
- Yeah, yeah.
- Unforseen consequence.
- Uh oh.
Is it usable?
- Yeah, well, it's getting a little bit sticky.
- [Sohla] Let's try it,
let's just try it. - I don't know.
I'm totally open to whatever you want.
I still have plenty of pieces in there.
It was just starting to get that pastiness
so I stopped it.
- Just in case you want to keep going with a,
"Oh, let me try to sprinkle it."
- Yeah, let me try the sprinkle thing.
- And then if that doesn't work, I'll stir it in.
- All right.
- [Man] Did Chris blow it?
- Chris blew it a little bit.
Probably should have done a hand chop for that.
But it's okay, sabotage.
Gonna add a little of this quanc,
and this is getting very hot.
I'm gonna just try one out
and see what happens.
No, it's so ugly, no good, no good.
Well, I dunno, maybe.
Imagine having a lot of those.
It might be cute.
Maybe we're okay.
I'm gonna push forward, it actually tastes pretty good.
So I'm gonna add a little baking soda.
It aerates the caramel a little bit
so you get a lighter crunch when you bite into it.
Pull it out, get a little guanc.
Too much guanc, shake it off.
How many of these do I need to make?
You're good, this is ugly, this is nice, this one's [beep].
- So I had the shredded bits of pork hock
inside the raviolo.
Oh yeah, pleasing.
But on the outside, I wanted to maintain
a fairly traditionally-inspired sauce
so I had rendered guanciale and, honestly,
I'll be looking over Carla's shoulder a little bit
just in terms of seeing
how she's constructing the very traditional.
As far as I know, the guanciale is just gonna be cut
into some kind of shape, crisped up,
and then added back into the dish later at the end
to be part of that final composition.
- The egg is the foundation for the sauce.
- The heart and soul of carbonara.
- In traditional carbonara, you have some combination
of whole egg and yolk.
They are a total starring player in this dish
and I think, especially in this kind of case,
seeking out quality really goes a long way.
- Those pastured eggs,
because the chickens have a broader diet
and they're pecking around
and getting different kinds of stuff,
those yolks tend to be a very beautiful, rich color
and are probably closer to the traditional chicken egg,
which would have been these very happy chickens
pecking all around in Italy.
- You really want to lean on the ability of the yolk
to provide body, richness, texture,
glossiness to your sauce.
In my modern take on carbonara,
I felt really clear that I wanted to create
a very traditionally based sauce
but I also wanted the inclusion of just straight up egg yolk
inside my raviolo itself.
It's like, suddenly it seems like a real bad idea, you know?
Well, it's staying still, and that's something.
You don't want any errant moisture inside that raviolo
because it's gonna prevent you from getting a good seal.
That's not terrible, and sometimes,
not terrible is great.
And I'm gonna have to determine how to shape the raviolo.
Is it better to go all in on one big raviolo
that kind of fills a plate?
Is it better to do several small ones?
I think the words you're looking for
are not [beep] bad.
I don't know that you need three of these on a plate.
Like, maybe you're getting one.
- Maybe you're getting one.
There is a raviolo on the menu with egg yolk
at Palizzi Social Club in Philly
and his is like, it's not circle,
it's square edge, and it almost
drapes off the side of the plate.
- Is this with the porky stuff?
I might do one big sformato.
- Oh, that's what I thought you were gonna do.
- I don't know.
- So you're not gonna cut it out?
- Yeah, I'm into that.
- You get more of that,
one yolk. - And then a better
yolk to filling ratio.
- Yeah, but that way you have extra pasta
to balance your sauce. - To enjoy the rest of it.
Yeah, that sounds good.
- It's not a crazy amount more,
but at least now I'm feeling a little bit more bullish
about just shaping it how I want.
That's real life right there.
- The thing holding my whole dish together
is gonna be this little base of rich egg yolk ice cream
that is going to be the core, the heart, the sauce.
So, I'm gonna blend some yolks into here, a lot of yolks.
I'm gonna put them in while it's on.
So the eggs in carbonara are really vital
to the identity of carbonara.
I wanna make sure I have a lot of this
deep yolk richness and flavor in mine,
and I think that by turning the yolks into an ice cream,
it's like the perfect vehicle.
So, cheese and carbonara.
I believe it can be parm.
I believe it can be pecorino.
Maybe it can be both.
- This is pecorino cheese.
I love pecorino, some people don't.
- [sighing] Between you and me, okay?
It's like a [beep] hammer.
Literally, it grabs your taste buds
like a [beep] werewolf in the night and doesn't let go.
- I think it is very delicious.
It can be a little bit funky, it can go a little bit sour,
it can be a little bit overwhelming.
So combining it with something
that's a little bit sweeter and nuttier
like parmesan totally works.
So, I have a quarter cup each of parm and pecorino.
And I can tell, you can tell by the color.
See how much more yellow the parm is?
I like pecorino,
Chris is not a fan. - I do, too.
Chris like-- - Chris has some--
- Hey, there's nothing weird
about not liking bananas or peanut butter.
- I opted to use parmesan.
I just find the flavor is better.
- These kinds of cheeses are really sturdy and firm and dry
and that dryness is gonna translate well
to a nicely emulsified sauce.
- [Carla] In a bowl, I wanna combine my egg yolks,
whatever whole egg I'm doing, with the grated cheese.
- Cheese needs to go into the sauce.
It needs to melt into the sauce,
it needs to emulsify into the sauce,
it needs to be part of what's adding richness, body, flavor,
and the sauce for my raviolo ultimately
was like a pretty traditional carbonara sauce,
but with the addition of garlic.
You're staying firm on no garlic, yeah?
Get out of here?
I really like what Carla has going on so far.
Her sauce has a wonderful texture to it,
so I'm thinking of kind of taking that idea
but rounding it out.
Little bit of butter, little bit of garlic
for a little bit of extra depth.
I personally just love
the addition of garlic in my carbonara.
It brings a little bit of sweetness
and extra earthy funkiness of its own.
It really plays well with the other flavors there
but not traditional.
- So for my cheese component, the cheese is the one thing
that I feel like isn't gonna work with the dessert.
I want to use it very subtly.
So traditionally, the parm and pecorino
is thrown into the sauce
and you toss your pasta through with the cheese
and it melts and emulsifies and enriches everything.
So I feel like, by putting my cheese flavor
into my yolk ice cream, which is kind of like
the sauce of my dish, is kind of the same vibe.
I want to use the cheese rinds to steep in the milk
for my ice cream for a little bit of saltiness
and a little bit of that cheesy funk.
I've never had parmesan ice cream,
and I don't know if anyone should.
We're gonna find out together.
I don't want too much of it, to be honest,
cause I think it'll just be weird.
I really love this ice cream machine and I want one.
[machine playing "The Ice Cream Song"]
Are you not excited? - I tried to change that
to the non musical one.
- I like the musical one!
- No, no, no, no, no. - Why?
- Shut it down, shut it down. - Why don't you love any joy?
It's looking really thick and creamy and so yolky.
I think it's done.
You get yolks on the palette right away,
and then it finishes parm which is kind of funny.
It's almost like a little mean trick.
I don't know.
So this is an egg yolk and parmesan ice cream.
- Uh huh.
- You put parmesan cheese in there?
It's not a milkshake.
- Good wow, bad wow?
- I'm kind of into it?
- It's so trippy.
- What topping would you do?
- It's getting a spaghetti and guanciale funnel cake on top.
- That was a joke.
- No, it's not a joke!
- Ah, black pepper.
Really, one of my favorite spices.
- Black pepper is one of those spices
that I think is so easy to overlook
and I think we're so used to like,
oh, a little sprinkle of black pepper on my salad,
but really incorporating it into a dish in a deliberate way,
it's capable of bringing so much flavor.
- You cannot really make carbonara without black pepper.
It is an integral part of the dish.
- It's gonna add a little bit of brightness,
it's like a little high note that's gonna cut the richness
just the same way acid does
like when you're finishing something
with a little squeeze of lemon juice or vinegar,
the pepper's gonna do that for us.
- You need that little bit of spiciness
to cut through all the other richness that's going on.
- Okay, so now I'm gonna toast the pepper.
When you pay attention to what's happening to the food,
you notice these things that,
if you were just following instructions,
you wouldn't even notice.
Grind them up a little bit.
Traditionally, or the way that I have learned
to make carbonara, you would add the black pepper
to the egg and cheese mixture that goes into the sauce.
- Black pepper.
I certainly incorporated it into my sauce.
I want to toast or bloom my coarsely ground black pepper
in hock fat cause there's flavors that are fat soluble
and there are flavors that are water soluble.
Pepper can kind of swing both ways.
I would say that what you extract in the hot fat
is a little bit sharper, it's a little bit more keyed up.
- And I will add, once the pasta's almost done,
some of the pasta water into that egg and cheese mixture
just to loosen it up, warm it up a little bit.
- So, loosening with a little bit of water
is gonna help keep this emulsion alive.
I mean, I think it's good, you know?
- The pasta water is a vital ingredient to any pasta dish
but especially a dish like this because there's no cream,
it's not a tomato base, the pasta water
is the heart of the dish.
I need some pasta water.
Did I just dump it all out?
- Did you dump the pasta water?
Solah, that's the number one thing not to do.
- Can I have some of your pasta water?
- Lucky I have a ladle right here.
- It's really good that everyone's got pasta going.
So I really want the pasta water
to be a focus in my experimental dish
by turning it into like an espuma or foam
to coat the whole thing.
I'm gonna enrich my pasta water with a splash of cream
and then set it with some gelatin.
I don't want the espuma to be too sweet
but I am gonna add a little bit of sugar.
And then I'm gonna put my pepper in my pasta water foam
and that's a great way
to get the pepperiness all over everything
but I want it to be in a more subtle way.
I don't want like,
whole cracked black peppercorns in my dessert,
but I want the essence of black pepper in my foam, you know?
Just barely hit you in the nose.
I'm gonna pour it into this,
this is a little charger to whip it up
so it gets really nice and fluffy and thick
just like whipped cream,
and then I'm going to pop it in an ISI container
and charge it with some, what's it called, nitrogen?
I don't know, I don't know science.
You notice a little pin here, so when I screw this on here
it pierces it and then this gas gets injected into here
and aerates the whole thing.
And I'm gonna chill this.
- Carbonara's one of those dishes
that I like to say, asses in chairs.
When the pasta's in the water, get your ass in a chair
cause the second it's done it's coming to you.
Got rigatoni, I got guanciale fat water,
which is the name of my new scent.
When the pasta goes into the pan with the guanciale fat
and I add the egg and the cheese mixture,
then there's the tossing and the stirring
and the emulsifying that's happening in the pan.
I mean, the key thing
about when you're building the sauce in the pan
is there has to be some residual heat.
If the egg doesn't get cooked at all,
it's gonna be really thin
and it's gonna just taste kind of raw.
If you heat it up too much or too quickly,
it's gonna turn into scrambled egg.
So that moment,
that's actually a pretty active cooking moment.
Oh my God.
Oh, la la, okay.
Oh my God, there's so many guanciale tunnels.
The major advantage with the rigatoni
is the guanciale tunnel that I'm very attracted to.
I like to hold back some of the cheese
after I've made the pan sauce
just to go freshy fresh on top.
I'm quite pleased.
- Raviolo just went in.
Two minutes, I might pull it a few seconds before.
Gonna dump it right into our sauce here.
Just gonna let it kinda coat, hang out in there just briefly
and then we're gonna take it right to the plate.
- Okay, so we can plate one up.
I was gonna quenelle this
but this is super hard and this isn't very frozen
so it kind of throws off my plating completely.
Can you not use this
and then just cut to perfectly plated dish?
Is that not how it works?
What happened here?
Did it just, is it from it sitting out
at room temperature right now?
Wow, it's really easy to go through
an emotional downspiral with these things, huh?
It's what you live for, isn't it?
You're just waiting, so you're setting me up.
So that nothing can go wrong.
- She's quenelling.
- [Alex] That was, see?
- It's fine.
- [Carla] How it sunk in?
It was beautiful.
- A little dippy dippidy doo dah?
Take it away.
- [Carla] Espuma!
- Take it away!
- Oh God.
- [Carla] My classic dish.
- I know which one I'm going for
cause I see the lardon guanciale right there.
- Guanciale tunnel? - Ooh, there's one of those
right here, too, I'm gonna go for one, too.
- In the end...
- That's really good.
- It's texture, flavor, real sharp pop of black pepper,
porky, and then the egg is kind of everything,
kind of in every crevice, coating your mouth,
and then the cheese is like your seasoning.
- It's a real smack in the face.
- Classic, gorgeous.
- Really classic. - I think, honestly one of
the best carbonaras I've ever had.
And I'm not even saying that. - Sohla!
- It's really good.
- You know, mine sat for a little bit
while everybody messed around, mainly Sohla.
- Sorry, sorry!
Look at the beautiful ruffle. - Natural, yeah.
- I love the texture of that.
- You know what I did?
Because I just kept that raw, live edge of the pasta
as it came through the sheeter because I just kind of--
- [Sohla] So you didn't trim up the edges at all?
- No, no, I cut here and here. - That's really cool,
I really like how that looks.
- I'd rather keep something
in more of it's organic, natural form.
- Like, why does it have to be so...
We should, hopefully, still have some fluidity here.
- [Sohla] Oh wow, it's so orange.
- [Carla] Oh my God, wow.
- That's perfect.
- That's one of those eggs that has the yolk that just like
amazing. - Amazing.
- That barely looks real.
- I love that it's like a very modern approach
and that you're nodding to the rusticness of the original
in all of those details but there's a refinement
in all of the technique and then messing with the sauce,
like you said, to add flavor
so that it's not just what it is.
- You know where it's coming from,
you get the carbonara vibe,
but it tastes nothing like Carla's carbonara.
- I feel like I'm getting a lot more richness
from that gelatinous ham hock.
- I really poo pooed the garlic,
but now, if I made carbonara at home,
I would add garlic to it.
- I was more worried about the garlic than the ham hock.
- Really? - Yeah.
And I really like the garlic in it.
- I love that, so good.
- Dessert carbonara.
What you've always wanted.
You didn't know, but.
Get in there, it's melting.
- Looks incredible.
Look, it's oozing like Chris' ravioli center.
- It's so weird.
Cause it really, it does taste like carbonara.
- It really does taste like carbonara.
But it also tastes like dessert.
- That yolk flavor is so...
- It's so weird.
I appreciate all your support,
it was really an emotional journey.
- I love the yolk ice cream.
You could just serve that.
- The yolk ice cream and honestly,
the salted pasta water foam, the flavor of that?
Those are my favorite things for me.
- You like the pasta water foam?
- Yeah, no, I do.
- I was mostly making that to troll you.
- [laughing] Why?
- No, the flavor really carries the thought.
Yes, pasta. - Like, you get the saltiness,
but you also get the--
- Yeah, like the starch. - [Carla] The starch!
- Like the wheaty, starch.
- It was from my pasta water.
- It was your pasta water.
- The caramel's the only thing where I'm just like,
that tilted into the place of, it's not carbonara anymore.
I understand how it's functioning in there,
like, why it makes sense, but that flavor starts to shriek
and kind of get loud against some of the other ones.
There's a lot of really good things
happening here. - If I had three more hours.
That's it, I just need three more hours.
- For a brand new invention with seventeen elements
and one day to think about,
I think it's pretty good.
- And for it to come off reading as anything like carbonara,
I think it's pretty rad.
- Scoff. - I think I learned that,
you know, you can break out of tradition a little bit.
- It's all right, yeah.
- You learned that you could break out of tradition?
- All right, we're gonna break for coffee.
Yeah, like jewel toned berry.
- Yes, yeah. - Just like, staying.